To Be Available This Weekend

The September 2010 Video of the Month has been filmed and will be available this weekend. Admittedly, all I seem to be doing lately is working on Volume 4: Biu-Tze, so forgive me for getting a bit caught up with it and not getting the VOM available today. We also filmed this month’s installment of our Distance Learning Program and all DVD’s will be going out this weekend.

It’s Getting Close!

More work was completed the past few days on Volume 4: Biu-Tze than I expected, and we are getting very close to the final release. What I have found is a bit slow-going with the video renders. As most of you know, we made the transition from standard def to hi-def a few months ago and while the composition is much better, it takes a great deal more time to render AVCHD files than it does from digital tape.

With over 50 videos to finish up, admittedly that was something I did not count on so that is where the delay is. The text itself is finished. All sections completed their final editing this past weekend, so that in itself is big accomplishment! With only a handful of photos left to “fill in the gaps”, that leaves the video renders to be finalized.

I have no clue how long that will be because it varies from video to video. Since most are generally 30 seconds or so, they average about 4 to 5 minutes each for rendering. Depending on the slow-motion inclusion and accompanied narration, sometimes the same length of video can take longer to render. Go figure.

However, I am working on all of the renders and will keep trucking along until the very last one is finished. I am still expecting about another 2 weeks given life and work schedules, etc., so bare with me. Things are still moving along and I am very excited to be nearing completion on this 2-year project.

Additional Videos and Photos

We had another brief photo shoot yesterday to work through some angles that did not come out properly. With that being finished up, we ran out of time so the videos did not get filmed. Saturday, September 4 is our next scheduled media shoot so hopefully we can get it all finalized and finished up.

Once done, I will be living in my office working on editing and finishing up the final packaging to release the workbook. It has been a long road but we are nearing the finish line. Thanks for your patience! I know that many of you have been anxiously awaiting the release. Hopefully we will not let you down.

Videos and Photos Almost Done

We did a third video and photo shoot on Tuesday evening for almost 2-1/2 hours to finalize all of the shots needed. While we managed to get through the bulk of it, one more session is needed to finish things up, plus re-shoot a few angles that were not taken.

I was hoping for an August release but it might take an additional two weeks in order to get the videos edited due to the extra content added (bird’s eye view added to the head-on view, plus more drills than I originally planned but decided to include now vs. later). We have reached a point now, though, where we are so close to finishing and I want to ensure a great training workbook vs. settling for second-best.

So, give me just a couple more weeks to get things finalized and then Volume 4 will be ready for you. This truly is our best workbook yet and the currently-available eBooks are already receiving the upgrades, too, including new drills and hi-def videos. It is all coming to fruition so give me just a bit more time to get it out to you. Trust me when I say that it will be worth the wait.

Advanced Footwork

For those interested in improving your footwork, the tripodal dummy is a unique program of working steps, kicks, and the mechanics of the lower body to such a degree that you will wonder how you ever got along with out. The problem, though, is what is the Tripodal dummy and how is it worked? Further still, how do you work the set if you do not have the room for the trunks that are needed?

In this article, let’s explore this avenue of training that still eludes so many. There is actually an entire curriculum for this training, including four separate sections of training. However, we will look at just the basics here for getting you started.

The Tripodal Dummy
The tripodal dummy is nothing more than using three upright poles or trunks in order to work steps and kicks. There are no upper body actions such as punches, elbows, etc., other than changing Man-sau as needed. In this way, the focus remains solely on footwork.

The concept is that at any given angle, we can maneuver around an obstacle while simultaneously remaining protective and initiating a jam or kick. Footwork is paramount here since effective positioning can wedge our lower body into the opponent, thereby keeping him from attacking in the first place.

Huen-bo
The first action seen in working the tripodal dummy is Huen-bo, or Forward Circling-step.  Huen-bo plays a pivotal role here in that we have to work our way around the the poles in order to set up for angling into the accompanying kicks. The idea is that by repositioning ourselves, we can maneuver around an incoming kick while simultaneously keeping our upper body stable.

The poles are set up as if each were at the end of a small triangle. The distance between each is just enough that you should be in Juen-ma between them and still have a few inches of room to work. This replicates the effective range we would strive to be in during a real fight, i.e. you want to remain in punching distance, so your distance between the poles should be close enough that you can be in Juen-ma and still reach if punching.

As you begin the steps, simply work Huen-bo around each pole while changing sides in order to navigate around the poles. This lets you train a smooth, fluid Huen-bo and learn a more coordinated upper body change that lets you become more relaxed as you navigate around objects. This one simple drill can markedly increase your coordination all by itself.

Jeet-gerk
Once your Huen-bo actions are fluid and you have a good coordinated upper body via changing Man-sau, we now add the first kick. Jeet-gerk, or Stop-kick/Jamming-kick, is a fast, explosive kick that goes no higher than the ankle or shin. As you complete a step, the other leg drives in hard and fast with Jeet-gerk to the pole you are closest to. That foot then Huen-bo’s around the leg so that you are behind, where the other leg now drives Jeet-gerk into the next pole.

The constant moves between the poles first in a clockwise direction and then counter-clockwise will, over a period of time, bring a new light to your footwork and create a more coordinated skill set that continuously improves your confidence. With a more coordinated lower body, you will now find your upper body being more relaxed, too, which in turn makes you a more effective fighter.

Wang-chang-gerk
As Jeet-gerk progresses and Huen-bo becomes extremely fluid, you can then introduce Wang-chang-gerk, or Side Thrusting-kick, to your actions. As you Huen-bo around a pole, take a longer step so that you are in true kicking range. Drive Wang-chang-gerk fully into the pole, return your centerline to the pole, and then go back in the direction you came from. You can train one leg then the other on the same pole for a bit in order to get comfortable, and then continue on.

Continuous Stepping and Kicking
To move to the next pole, Huen-bo around the pole you just kicked and work Jeet-gerk. Immediately move to the next and work Wang-chang-gerk. Repeat this to the next pole, then back to the previous pole, and alternate all three poles until you are using Huen-bo, Jeet-gerk, and Wang-chang-gerk on every pole and with each leg.

There is no pre-set pattern in which to work it; instead, you want to break out of that habit of pre-set actions. First learn to get comfortable with stepping and navigating around the poles, then elevate the steps to include Jeet-gerk and Wang-chang-gerk at all poles and with both sides in a fluid, non-stop manner.

Air Training
Many of you do not have the resources or space for sinking three poles into the ground, so one way around this is to set up chairs or small boxes in the triangle pattern. Naturally any kicks to these objects will send them flying so do not work the kicks; instead, use the objects solely for stepping around them.

Height-wise, you want the height to be at head level if possible. You want to instill this height in your mind because it mimics the height of a real person, so if at all possible, make your setup at your height.

If you find that you cannot set up your objects to be the same height as you, no worries. Work with what you have and leave it at that. Some will forego the training altogether if they cannot obtain the exact tools to use, but that is silly. Again, use what you have and leave it at that. At the very least, you will still get some valuable training in stepping just with a few chairs or boxes.

Conclusion
The goal of the tripodal dummy is simply to train your footwork so that you can flow freely and remove that stiff, uneasy feeling in the lower body. It is not so much about power as it is fluidity and ease of use in free-stepping/kicking.

Maneuvering around an opponent or multiple opponents sounds easy, but even a brief workout on the tripodal dummy will show where many improvements can be made. Even after years of sparring or regular workouts, a tripodal dummy can make everyone feel like a beginner again by pointing out various flaws or areas that might have gone unnoticed for a time.

What Happened to the Newsletter?

As many of you know, I have been so busy with all of our projects lately and working to finish up Volume 4: Biu-Tze that our newsletter, AWCA Notes, has not been published for over a year. That is a disappointment, too, because I truly love writing and producing it.

So before we go on, let me say that I have no plans of dropping it. Instead, I will be making it available again starting January 2011. The big question is how it is going to be delivered.

What started out as a simple text-only newsletter eventually grew into a full-featured HTML format with photos and videos. Delivery was a simple sign-up process and then evolved into downloading a newsletter reader (which prevents email services from flagging it as spam and keeping you from missing the issues). I sure do love the newsletter reader for a variety of reasons, but to be honest, I need to consolidate the various programs I use and simplify things so that delivery is consistent and uninterrupted.

After going through the programs and realizing what needed to be done, I have decided to drop the newsletter reader and return to email delivery. While we will have to take our chances with the email services, it really boils down to ensuring the management of content. I thought about moving the newsletter here to our weblog, but I believe that certain areas need to remain exclusive to those that sign up for the newsletter and want to take that extra step in their training.

Our eBook customers also know that delivery of usernames and passwords is a manual process, so I have been working to automate that. As luck would have it, the program being used to automatically deliver access information includes a full-featured newsletter delivery system, so this program will be used to manage both. Not only will everyone be able to receive their access information immediately after purchase, but they will also have a double opt-in function to sign up for AWCA Notes and begin receiving their monthly issues via the same service.

For the moment, you can still download and check out AWCA Notes via the newsletter reader. The issues stop at 2009 and beginning January 2011, the newsletter reader will be replaced with a sign-up section to begin receiving the newsletter via email.

I am hoping that this move will greatly increase productivity and that the email services will be kind to us. Keep your fingers crossed that they will, and look for the newsletter being available again in January. It will be a great feeling to begin producing it again!

Wooden Dummy Differences

Some practitioners talk about a “live” dummy vs. a “dead” dummy. The funny thing is, most of them have never even trained on a dead dummy and have no base to work with, yet they continue to talk about it as if they know it.

Is there a difference? If so, what are those differences? What are the pros and cons? I have trained extensively on a dead dummy so let’s spend a few moments going over the pros and cons in order to answer some of the questions.

Purpose of the Dummy
There are many positive attributes that are developed as a result of training with a wooden dummy, and it is unfortunate that some schools teach the wrong intent or focus. There are a host of theories as to how it is approached, and that is one of the reasons for so many varied demonstrations we see throughout the lineages.

The purpose of the dummy is to develop power in the entire body at all ranges and angles. Yes, it develops arm conditioning due to the contact being made, but that is not the main intent. Yes, it acts as a stand-in training partner when a live partner is not available, but that is not the main intent. And yes, the dummy curriculum works advanced concepts not found in other Wing Chun forms, but that is not the main intent. These concepts can be worked in the air, too, so if that is the case, then the primary focus cannot be solely for learning advanced concepts.

Instead, the primary focus is on learning to work the body to generate full power in a relaxed yet explosive manner at all angles and ranges. When considering this fact, we can then decide which dummy will afford the best option to create that skill set.

Dead Dummy
It is said that up until the time of Grandmaster Yip Man’s generation, all dummies were “dead” dummies. Rather than mounted on the wall like we are used to seeing, the trunks were sunk into the ground and varied in diameter, with some of them even being over 2-feet in diameter. Pretty impressive, to say the least, but these were cherished achievements in construction and closely guarded by each Wing Chun family.

One element that I have always loved is the freedom you experience when working on a dead dummy. Since the intent of working on a dummy is to develop power at all angles and ranges, a dead dummy allows you to traverse a full 360-degrees around the trunk to work any combination of movements you want. That in itself opens your mind to the many possibilities available for pulls and side-steps that would place you behind the opponent.

Another effect of working with a dead dummy is that there is no give whatsoever in the trunk (provided it is sunken into the ground properly, that is). Because it is like running into a brick wall, your foundation and power delivery is quite different and if you approach it as you do with a live dummy, you will immediately find that you need to ease up on the power you put in to it.

The first time I hit the dead dummy with some explosive force, the rebound was so great that I felt it in my back. An interesting sensation, to say the least. While my foundation was solid and did not shove me backwards, my entire upper body sure felt it. Over time I learned to compensate for the power and work the entire body as a complete unit, which is a mainstay of dummy training itself. I am not entirely sure this quality would have been so readily apparent on a live dummy as quickly as it was on the dead dummy.

Live Dummy
When it comes to a live dummy, they are so well-known and common that it is easy to overlook the differences between it and a dead dummy. Those differences are there, though.

For one, the live dummy offers a springy feeling in order to mimic a bit of human give that will take place when contact is made. Even a slight bit of give will instill a sense of springyness in our actions that the dead dummy does not offer.

The drawback to the live dummy is that you can only approach it from the front and sides. Because of the slats, you cannot go around it, and some of the movements in sections 7 and 8 are actually intended to be further behind the opponent than the live dummy offers (which is why it feels odd working these actions on a live dummy but not a dead dummy).

The spring action that one feels is actually such a pro that it can overcome any of the deficiencies that some might feel the live dummy has over the dead dummy. Some say that the live dummy was created for this very purpose of achieving feedback and the springy feeling, while others say that the only reason it came into use is because of limited space in which to sink it into the ground.

Either way, it did come into existence so the why’s really do not matter. It is an exceptional method of training and is makes it possible for virtually anyone to work their Wing Chun in a competent manner (provided, of course, that they have first mastered the Siu-Nim-Tau, Chum-Kiu, and Biu-Tze. Without that, they are setting themselves up for failure because the dummy curriculum relies first on extreme competence in this skills).

Conclusion
Both types of wooden dummies – dead and live – offer great benefits to the practitioner. They also have their own nuances that cannot be replicated on the other with ease. It is to your benefit to train on a dead dummy if at all possible in order to see for yourself what it has to offer. You will not be sorry.

Simple Is Best

One of the most effective yet simplest tools for developing power is the wall bag. With a variety of different configurations, let’s go over some of them and how they are a mainstay to Wing Chun training.

The concept of having a wall bag vs. a swinging bag might seem mundane at first, but the first time you hit one, you will immediately see the difference. A heavy bag – even those tied down to the floor – still have a certain amount of give when struck. This is not “bad” by any means; however, it is a different force being felt.

By contrast, a wall bag has no give. It is mounted directly to the wall and the wall prevents give. When force is driven into the bag, the amount of padding determines the give so you will want to ensure that you have enough filler in the bag so that you do not actually make contact with the wall itself.

The concept behind a wall bag is that because there is no give, the rebound felt is driven back into your arm. Rather than always having your strikes move the target, it is you who needs to overcome the rebound that is generated. Due to the rebound, it teaches you to root your foundation, which in turn provides even more power to the strike.

Our mindset is that the bag is not the actual contact; instead, it is the other side of the wall behind the bag that we are actually envisioning the strike reaching. By envisioning our strikes in this manner – whether punches, palms, elbows, knees, or kicks – a great degree of power is generated over a short period of time. Some might think that it takes a very long time to work this type of punching, but you would be surprised at how powerful one’s punches become in just a few weeks or regular wall bag training vs. heavy bag or swinging-type bag training.

When punching, only the bottom three knuckles are to make contact. When you close your fist you will see that the bottom three knuckles are in perfect alignment with the forearm, and when contact is made, the forearm acts like a human shock absorber. The entire arm is compressed and the body allows for cushioning of the rebound felt.

When kicking, the entire flat of the foot is made vs. only the heel, the ball of the foot, a knife kick, etc. You want the most surface possible on the target, so always use the entire flat of the foot. This also instills what happens in real fights when kicking in that during the heat of a real fight, your kicks will usually fly out faster than you can think about it. You want every ounce of energy possible hitting the target, which means the full flat of the foot should strike hard and true.

For those new to wall bag training, I recommend a light start of very minimal power for the first few weeks. The goal is to gradually build up your power in order to gradually improve conditioning of the hand and wrist. It is tempting to start slamming into the bag, but refrain from that as much as possible. Power and speed will come in time. For now, go slowly and ensure that your knuckles are striking properly.

Begin by using only one arm at a time and doing 25 punches per side three times weekly for 2 weeks. Each week following, slightly increase the power (but again do not over-do it) and increase the reps to 30 each side.

Every week, gradually increase the power and speed so that you can reach 1,000 punches total (500 each arm) with relative speed and power. If you find that your knuckles are flushed, that is normal. However, if you find that they are bleeding, then you are either punching too hard too soon, or you are not punching on a straight line. Instead, your punches are arcing in, and when contact is made, they are dragging down on the bag. This is a clear indication that you are not actually putting all of your power into the target like you think you are.

Remember to take it easy, go slow, and focus on the contact point (knuckles). Launch your punches only on a straight line so that all of your power is going into the bag vs. an inefficient angle. Stay in Yee-chi-kim-yeung-ma, keep the head level, shoulders relaxed, and smooth breathing. In this way, you will follow a logically progressive training program for developing jack hammer punches in a short amount of time.

Free-fight Training

Having trained in a variety of martial arts since I was 15, and exclusively Wing Chun since 1985, I have been exposed to quite a few different methods for fight training. From basic point sparring to all-out, everything-goes fighting (and everything in between), Wing Chun’s Lat-sau concept is without a doubt the most interesting, effective, and efficient ways to work real-world skills I have personally seen.

The key to effective and realistic fight training is first to learn the physical actions, followed by exploring the concepts that make it work. There is no protective equipment at this stage, either, since control and timing – as well as feel – is of vital importance.

As the drills being worked are improved with timing and comfort, speed and control is gradually increased so that motor skills are improved. Without this, it resembles little more than flailing about and only feels like it is useful. In reality, it will be unusable against a change in timing, pace, or action.

Continuous training will see the motor skills and responses becoming increasingly fluid and swift, and it is then that you really begin to step things up a bit. Each partner should be somewhat on the same level so that changes in angle are replied to from both of you in a relaxed yet immediate manner. If one is drastically more skilled than the other, it will always be a lop-sided match which will do little to nothing except feed an ego. Instead, it should be somewhat the same levels in order to tax each other. One can be at a higher level in order to tax the lower level, but the difference in levels should not be so drastic that it is completely dominating before it has even begun.

 The final stage of the basic Lat-sau approach is to now include gloves and possibly head cages and Chi-sau chest protectors if applicable. It is also a good idea to include mouth guards and groin protectors should these areas be targets for the drill(s) in question. While not actually full-speed, all-out sparring per say, the nature of the drills do in fact lend themselves to participants becoming involved in sparring.

Sparring is really nothing more than exacting your skills with a similar-level training partner in order to hone and refine your responses. In the nature of Lat-sau, we work specific drills in order to learn various responses, but like all-things Wing Chun, elements come into play that sometimes we do not expect. These elements can be positive or negative, and we strive to keep them positive by learning from them. Attitudes and egos have no place here, for both will drive one’s skill to degradation.

In the end, a logical, continuous progression of one drill through the ranks of increased speed, timing, control, and fluidity – coupled with the right attitude for improving one’s mental fortitude – has such a positive effect that our sparring resembles all-out, full-scale fighting. In this way, we really do “mix it up” and apply our art with precision vs. the same stoic drills day after day. It is not a concept trained by all schools, but those that do will readily attest to its effectiveness.

Advanced Shooting and Composition

In 5 minutes I will be attending an online webinar for advanced video shooting and composition. This is another avenue I pursue to keep making our videos as professional as possible and stay up-to-date on not just the latest and best methods, but also to reinforce the basics to make good, solid, quality videos.

Because of classes such as this, you will see our videos becoming more robust and helpful as training aids (and don’t tell anyone, but it’s also a lot of fun!)

Update: Just completed the webinar. Overall it was very good and I learned a few new things. After the 3-day videography class, though, naturally it could not compare. Still, it was worth the time and I did learn a few new things to consider when doing our shots. Every little bit comes in handy when creating composition for shots and angles, and especially so when doing martial arts instructional videos.